There are a few different ways to use an amp meter. A 60 amp meter would need 8 gauge wires. A typical 50 milliamp meter can be configured to read either voltage or current. Ammeters run the hi, 2009 when you will work, information needed to connect it up and fuse. Cranking the engine perhaps 200 amps will show no effect on the amp meter.
Am going to use it to measure the Voc and Isc of some solar panels I have. Would that be the best way to go Thanks alot Jack. But this setup will never tell you anything about the condition or state of charge of the battery. The best way to do it,if it's on your 85 Chevy truck,is pull off the starter solenoid nut,and remove all the wires except the battery cable. I was looking under the dash and didn't see any welding leads running under there. You did not have to break the wire. But you have to watch what you wire into, because if you wire into say the heater, then you are going to measure the current being used by the heater, not what the alternator is producing.
From the other side of the shunt, simply continue on to your charge controller or disconnect, etc. If you don't have a junstion block,then put one there. If this is done, a surge in current will result, potentially damaging the meter: Ammeters are generally protected from excessive current by means of a small fuse located inside the meter housing. Since the internal resistance of the meter is high, it won't be necessary to add it to the formula. Is it the same kind of meter as shown in my photo? In this case is in series still but on the negative side? My dual digital voltameter has red, black and green thick wires not the thin red and black to power the display. So with this setup the meter might at times read from +18 to -20, and it may momentarily peg past -30 if you blow the horn.
Actually the wires seem more sensible to me. As a rule of thumb 14 ga is good up to 15 Amps, 12 ga is good up to 20 Amps and 10 ga for up to 30Amps. Consider signing up for e-mail updates. The original gauge in the car only goes up to 30 amps, so the first time the battery gets low and the alternator starts to put out more then the gauge was designed for, you have a fire. Another woud be that an Amp Meter would channel a lot of Amps through wiring that goes into the cockpit. If the system stops charging completely the amp meter might show substantial discharge, but the ignition light would also come on to tell you the dynamo quit working, so the amp meter is adding very little to help the situation.
D 20-circuit 10-space 100-amp service connection two separate meter socket. Examples below on each pannel if we can also talk and exclude delivery - amp meter,. Let's assume that you are adding the shunt to the positive lead between your battery and the charge controller. Hook up the circuit as shown below. Form providing one wire up discussion how to fit in hook up 2.
Something inside the alternator broke shorting out the 10 ga. And minu pole goes trough meter — fat black in and fat blue out. The amp meter actually held up pretty good under that catastrophic load. For most normal operating conditions when the battery is near full charge with engine running, the control box will regulate dynamo output to satisfy the vehicle load demand, and the net current flow to the battery will be quite small. If you have a lot of stuff,consider increasing the wire size for you jumper and ammeter wiring to a 4 gauge,just to be safe,and make sure the ammeter you have is rated for high amperage.
Measure the exact voltage of the battery. Commonly accepted methods prior to a 20 amp make a white tape deck, along with capacities of the ground level meter. Many meters often display the actual full scale current of the meter coil usually in the lower right of the display face. If you were to wire the amp meter directly across the battery as you would with a volt meter the amp meter would immediately pass so much current as to fry the meter, almost instantly. Shunts are devices that tone down the amperage in a known ratio so that the ammeter can safely measure the amperage without the internal circuitry frying.
If the resistance is very small it will not appreciably inhibit current flow and will have no affect on the electrical system in the vehicle. With the power supply energized, start from zero volts and increase the voltage till the meter reads full scale. Some digital meters, like the unit shown in the illustration, have a separate jack to insert the red test lead plug when measuring current. Software is available to make your own meter face from. Wait- you are testing this with cooling fan right? Should measure flowing current 0 to 10 amps.
Gauges are a personal preference I use a voltmeter. For the amp meter to do you any good in this circumstance you have to watch it like a hawk, especially when the lights and accessories are on, and you have to understand what the meter is trying to tell you. I tried this on the first one in the list. I also see there is a volts trimmer there too, in case calibration drifts. Thanks for the potential help! I think one of the problems, is that a lot of schematics in books and old cars didn't fuse this circuit.